A Taste of the Orient in Berks County

Chris Torres
Staff Writer

KEMPTON, Pa. — While on business in Japan in 1973, Joel Spira had a taste of something he would never forget.

It was the juicy, scrumptious taste of an Asian pear; a flavor that would linger on his palate for quite some time.

Upon returning to the states, he discovered that the pears were a rare commodity.

So like any entrepreneur with a dream, Spira, the inventor of the electronic dimmer and founder of Lutron Electronics, decided to bring pears back with him.

That’s how his new business, Subarashii Kudamono, was started.

Located in a remote area of Berks County, it’s a hard place to find, considering there is no direct route to it.

But what initially began as just a hobby is starting to find a footing in the local marketplace.

Growing Asian pears in Berks and Lehigh County has been a challenge for the people involved in Subarashii Kudamono.

Eugene Konno, orchard manager and pomologist from Cornell, knows firsthand how tough it is to grow an Asian pear. He’s been at Subarashii Kudamono since the beginning.

“I didn’t know that much when I first started and there are still things that I am learning,” Konno said.

He said Spira approached him to come work for the orchard based on his prior experience working with other fruits.

“It was trial and error, figuring out how to grow things,” he said.

Nine years were spent on researching and developing varieties before a single tree was put in the ground.

The Spiras originally brought more than 2,500 varieties that were tested countless times for their quality and ability to withstand growing conditions in Pennsylvania.

The goal was to create and patent varieties of Asian pears unique to Subarashii Kudamono. It’s a process that involved taking buds and placing them in other pear trees, creating clones.

“We wanted something outstanding. We wanted something different,” he said.

Only 10 of the original varieties made the cut.

The first commercial planting took place in 1990 and took three years to develop.

“It takes a lot of hard labor to develop these plantings,” he said.

There have been many challenges Konno and the other people working at the orchard have had to deal with over the years.

An automated bird call system that can be heard throughout the orchard was installed to help keep birds out.

“If we didn’t have that system, the birds would wreak havoc on the orchard,” he said.

Silver tape is also used to keep them out.

They also use dogs to help keep small and large animals away.

Konno said he considered erecting deer fencing at one point. But he said dogs are better because they help to keep all animals out, not just deer.

Managing the trees is much like the care of a typical apple or peach orchard.
Dormant winter pruning is something that is done each year. The purpose is to open up the trees as much as possible so when spring comes the trees get a lot of sunlight.

While typical pear trees can grow anywhere between 30 and 40 feet tall, Konno said they selected trees that will grow to a maximum of 15-feet tall.

They also apply chemicals, depending on the weather conditions.

They have tried growing organically. But Konno said it is not economically viable at this time.

“Really, we cannot economically do it at our location,” he said.

About 200 acres of Asian pears are grown at the two orchards in Kempton and Germansville.

Subarashii Kudamono has four patented varieties: Asaju, Junosan, Su San and Lilysan.

Six other commerically available varieties are also grown as “fill-ins”.

Two other patented varieties are still in the trial phase.

Harvest started on Sept. 1 with six people picking pears. The fruit has to be harvested gently and placed in a special protective sleeve to protect it from bruising easily.

All told, the orchards produce anywhere between 12,000 and 15,000 boxes of pears a year.

There is a processing facility at the Kempton orchard, where employees separate the pears and grade them according to their appearance. A-graded pears are considered perfect and ready for direct retail. B-graded pears are considered good and often shipped to supermarkets, where they are sold in larger quantities. C-graded pears are usually kept for processing.

Most of the pears are sold direct to retail, where people can utilize the company’s Website, www.wonderfulfruit.com, to place their orders.

Asian pears have grown quite a reputation around the world. But Holly Harter, company spokesman, said many people have yet to hear of or taste an Asian pear.

Harter is working on several projects to get the word out on Asian pears. She is also involved in the development of a wine using pears from the orchards.

“Part of it is how do you let people know it is here. I look at this as a huge challenge,” said Harter, whose experience includes working for Pinnacle Ridge Winery.

While Asian pears have a long way to go to match the popularity of an apple or a peach, she said the experience of eating an Asian pear and its great taste will bring in more customers.

“They have a distinct taste, just as a grape or other fruit. I think the quality of fruit and the experience people get from tasting it will bring people to us,” she said.